Full Abdomen Adjustment

How to fit a belly in the Aiden hoody

When women sew for themselves, fit tends to be a big issue. A muslin is sewn so unwanted wrinkels in awkward places are spotted before sewing the actual garment. Then the pattern is adjusted and maybe even a new muslin is sewn to check the “new” fit. Why would this be different when we sew for men? Men also want clothes to fit and flatter their body.

Most patterns are drawn for men with a very streamlined stomach section, but let’s face it, not everybody fits that picture. If you try to fit a full abdomen (aka belly) into a slim fit pattern like the Aiden hoody, wrinkels will appear. It will look too tight at the stomach, causing it to pull uncomfortably or simply look unflattering. This could be a problem at all times or primarily when sitting. Sounds familiar? No need to despair, we have the pattern adjustment solution for you!

What can you do?

The answer to the full adbdomen problem is fairly straightforward: increase the midsection width of the pattern. This will provide more fabric around the belly, reducing any uncomfortable tightness there as well as allowing the fabric to drape more flatteringly around the midsection.

How the full abdomen adjustment works

1. The adjustment needs to be done at the lower front bodice of the Aiden hoody. There is no side seam allowance or hem allowance on this pattern, so no need to remove them first.
2. At the chest, draw a line that is perpendicular to the grain/fold line that starts at the side seam and ends at the fullest part of the chest.
3. Draw a second line, parallel to the grain or fold line, from the full chest point to the hem of the lower front bodice.
4. Using paper shears, cut along the drawn lines, starting at the hem, stopping at the full chest point, then cut from the side seam to the full chest point. Leave a small paper hinge.
5. Pivot outward from the paper hinge to create more ease through the midsection.
6. Lengthen the side seam to compensate for the length subtracted when pivoting.

Additional adjustments on pattern pieces

This adjustment will also increase the bottom of the Aiden hoody. This means you have to adjust the front cuff band as well.

1. Measure the additional space you’ve just created at the bottom of the lower front bodice of the Aiden hoody.
2. This amount of space needs to be added to each side of the front cuff band as well. Just add it to both ends of the hip cuff pattern.
3. Mark the old length of the hip cuff on your new pattern, as the back hip duff needs no adjustment. When sewing the hip cuff to the bodice, you need to use the old measurement for the back of your Aiden and the new (larger) measurement for the front part.

I hope this full belly adjustment is helpful for making your Aiden hoody! Do share pics of what you’re making with us on Instagram or Facebook – tag us @SleevesandLegs with the hashtag #sewingAiden so we don’t miss it.